Moving Doxie from Edenton, NC to Charleston, SC
First Mate’s Log, October 21 - November 9, 2025
Prep: We spent a solid day provisioning Doxie for our move from Edenton, NC to Charleston, SC. Planning meals aboard, clothes that you can wear more than once, and how to care for Stuart (our 19-year-old cat) and Scottie (the big fluffy white dog). We bought what we thought would be a great litter box only to find that once assembled it wouldn’t fit through the cabin door so we could tuck it into the forward head! Oh well… Stuart was knocked out with sedatives to make the trip down to Edenton from VA (he HATES the car!) and so far has only slept! LOL
After two trips to the local Food Lion, one trip (surprisingly) to the hardware store, and a really nice evening in Elizabeth City for dinner, we’re ready to pull up anchor and start this adventure! We had a relatively relaxing morning cleaning the dingy and finding the slow leak in its skin (Greg found some an epoxy that we’ve ordered and will pick up later on the trip). Edenton was a great first home for Doxie, but I honestly won’t miss the restrooms or showers! LOL
We’re taking it slow as we want to explore some of the small towns along the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), so come enjoy the ride with us!
Day 1: Edenton to Albemarle Plantation
What an AWESOME day for sailing!! We left Edenton around 2:00 and found following winds and seas all the way up the Albemarle Sound and were able to sail 80% of the trip! We were able to maintain about 5 knots under sail and with temps in the mid-70s we were in Heaven!! It’s so nice to just hear the slapping of the waves against Doxie’s hull and the snap of the sails as they fill with wind. We arrived at AP just before sunset and tied up to Dock B’s ‘T’ to find a gang plank waiting for us (this is now our new “must buy” item! as it folds up!!). Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed as was the club house, so we grilled out on the boat and had a relaxing evening on board Doxie. Tomorrow will be an early start, and while we’d love to stay for a couple of days here and get in a round of golf (super friendly staff, loads of amenities, clean showers and restrooms, and if you’re an ‘Albemarle Looper’ dockage is free!!) there’s rain coming down the pipeline and we need to plan around it as we’ll have some anchorages coming up and will need to take Scottie ashore.
Day 2: Albemarle Plantation to Alligator River Anchorage
We left out of AP around 8:00 am with following seas and winds as we headed east and then turned south to our first anchorage, Grapevine Bay on the Alligator River. Greg had read about this anchorage as finding ones where we can take Scottie ashore to potty has proven to be a challenge with NC’s marshy landscape along the ICW. We arrived with winds out of the west, about 10 mph, which died off as the sun began to go down. In looking at an overhead view, we could see a dirt road that came all the way down to the shore and some small piers along a narrow creek. I took Scottie, an EpiPen, and a pistol (just in case there we actually came face-to-face with an alligator on Alligator River!) and headed out. The creek’s inlet was hidden behind a duck blind and tall cattails, and while I did expect to hear banjos at any moment, the prior write ups were spot on. There were four small, and somewhat dilapidated docks, with two fishing boats tied up. There was a large rack that held about 50 crab pots, but no one in sight. Needless to say, the next morning I talked Greg into taking him!
We’d never stayed in such a remote and quiet spot before - the stars were on full display and the only sounds were the birds, waves, and light hum of the cables attached to the mast as the breeze came by. Greg and I enjoyed grilling out on the boat, making sure to keep the cockpit closed up so the bugs didn’t take up residence when the wind died down.
Day 3: Alligator River Anchorage to Belhaven, NC
Leaving our anchorage in Grapevine Bay, we dodged the lines of crab pots to get back into the main channel of Alligator River. Today was 100% about motoring as the Alligator River cut (officially called the Alligator River/Pungo River Canal), a relatively straight 200’ wide water highway that was built by the Army Corps of Engineers back in the 1950s, it connects the Alligator River to the Pungo River. I love this odd little waterway as it’s loaded with sea birds, marshlands, and occasionally a house or two. Since we only make about six knots, we get to see lots of different vessels as they pass us heading south, calling out on the VHF radio asking for a “slow pass.”
Belhaven Marina was our new destination as we’d previously stayed at Dowery Creek Marina, also in Belhaven but about an hour away by slow motor. We were met at the marina by Kenny, the new owner as of November 2024. He assisted with docking and was super friendly. The marina costs just under $2/ft + $10/night for 30 amp hook up. and includes laundry. The showers include towels, and there’s a small ships’ store on site. They have a deal for $18 that includes beer or wine, a koozie, and a t-shirt or hat :-) The little town of Belhaven has a “social district” which means you can have open containers from one of the local establishments (not your own) and can carry it into stores that have the “social district” signs. Right next to the marina, which is small, is a nice municipal park, a brewery, ladies dress shops, a coffee house, and several other restaurants (these did not have outdoor seating so we were limited where we could go with Scottie). At the marina there’s a food truck and across the street is Farm Boys, which had an extensive breakfast menu and only outdoor seating (this was not a great experience as we both got sick later that day). The brewery, ICW Brewing, has live music and events on Saturday nights, and was a cool self-serve set up where you scan a card the bartender gives you and then pour your own - you’re only charged for the ounces you pour!
Day 4: Belhaven Marina
We have opted to stay a second night at Belhaven Marina due to the positive write ups we’d read, The marina has a golf cart for transient boaters to use to explore if you don’t want to walk - we opted to get our steps in and give Scottie a bit of a leg stretch. Belhaven is a TINY town, so one night is more than enough time to see everything, especially if you arrive mid-day. We checked out live music at the IWC Brewery, walked around and did a bit of shopping. There is an Ace Hardware store just a few hundred yards from the marina ($8 for a two-pack of paper towels!) We ate at Tavern at Jack’s Neck and had a nice dinner - Greg got a pizza, which was big enough for lunch the next day, and I had a sandwich. The entire staff was SUPER FRIENDLY and surprisingly, we were allowed to bring Scottie inside with us (they have a large outdoor area behind the building, but they said to bring him on in…) The interior was tricked out with dark wood and loads of nautical gear and hunting trophies, topped off with a large stone fireplace and bourbon bar.
Day 5: Belhaven, NC to River Dunes Habor Club & Marina, NC
We set out this morning under grey skies as we headed to a hurricane hidey hole in Oriental, NC to wait out an approaching storm. We were met at the River Dunes by the dockmaster, Scott, and he gave us great directions on where to tie up Doxie and aided in tying her up as the wind began to pick up. Arriving on a Monday, none of the restaurants were open, so we grilled sausages, peppers, and onions on the little gas grill attached to our stern, popped open a cold one, and enjoyed an evening playing gin rummy.
Day 6, 7 & 8: River Dunes Habor Club & Marina, NC
Our first full day at River Dunes was met with sunny skies and a light wind, so we took Scottie on a 4.5 mile walk around the 1400 acres that make up this beautiful development. I posted a nice reel on Instagram highlighting the community’s features. The weatherman wasn’t wrong, and by late afternoon the rain and wind had found its way to NC. Even with icky weather, I found Greg working on a plumbing issue that has plagued us: the anchor wash. After taking apart the piping and tinkering for several hours he concluded there was something blocking the water in-take, so we’ll just keep on using the bucket to wash off the anchor’s mud for now. On our explorations we met some of the RD staff, who were very friendly and Scottie was, of course, a rock star, getting treats from the folks at The Provision and hellos from drivers by. We tried out Yawls Cafe’, a casual eatery with a menu that changes daily, outdoor seating (a must with Scottie), and met its chef, Ty, a hoot to chat with if you get the chance. The food was great (I had “meatloaf cupcakes” which were made in muffin tins with mashed potatoes piped on top and Greg had a yummy Cajun shrimp scampi that I kept sneaking bites from).
Day two at RD and Greg has called in a mechanic to take a look at an odd clicking noise we heard coming from the engine ($920 later we came away with the prognosis that fortunately, it’s nothing major, just a slightly misaligned shaft and we’ll eventually need new motor mounts - I am totally in the wrong business.) I am teaching a residential class and had to meet with students via MS Teams that morning, so I hung out at RD’s lovely captain’s lounge while the boys were getting greasy messing with the engine. We treated ourselves to dinner at The Harbor Club, which was serving a robust salad/soup/potato bar. We’d met a couple of the staff earlier that day and they’d already set up a table in a shielded part of their screen porch for us - so thoughtful!
On our third full day at RD we’std hoped to pull out as many of our compadres had, but with rain in the forecast all day and an anchorage on our agenda, we decided to stay another night. Laundry and a trip into town to the Piggly Wiggly were the highlights of this leisurely day and we cooked pasta onboard for dinner. Getting accustomed to this slower lifestyle has been a challenge for us, but one we’re willing to embrace.
Day 9: River Dunes to Moorehead City
We got a relatively early start and headed south to Moorehead City pulling out under cloudy skies and light rain. Heading south across the Neuse River and into Adams Creek, we followed it along to Core Creek, a narrow channel that dumps you out into Newport River, just northeast of Morehead City. This route saved us several days as we didn’t have to follow the outline of the Outer Banks around Cape Lookout and Harkers Island. We arrived at MC around 4:00 just as the wind picked up. Docking looked to be a challenge as we would need to turn her hard to starboard with 20 mph wind hitting her side. Craig, the dockmaster, was on hand to help, but Greg did a great job and put her right in without a hiccup. We tied up overnight at the public dock ($2/ft) which had electricity, restrooms, and showers. The location was good as we were within walking distance to numerous restaurants, a brewery, and some shops. The showers were very basic, with the restrooms and sinks in a different room, but they were clean and while well-worn, were what you’d expect at a municipal dock. I recommend bringing along an extra hand towel to use as a bathmat. We tried out Tight Line Brewery, which had a six-pour flight, and then walked over to the shoreline for dinner at What the Fin. While a bit pricey, the outdoor seating area was nice and the staff friendly and hospitable to Scottie. Called it an early night and enjoyed a glass of wine and game of Scrabble on the boat while watching the sunset views and newbie boaters whose lack of docking skills we found to be both entertaining and worrisome as darkness settled on the day.
Day 10: Morehead City to Swansboro, NC
Beautiful clear skies!! The only downside to this gorgeous day was the southerly wind so we were not able to raise the sails. While seeing dolphins a sandbars loaded with waterfowl along the way, we pulled into the tiny town of Swansboro. Located just past Emerald Isle as we headed south on the ICW, this village hails on the convergence of the ICW and White Oak River which creates swift currents and making it the most challenging dockage we’ve faced thus far. Justin, the dockmaster was on hand to help and I will tell you straight up that this area is not for the inexperienced or faint of heart (a reel showing the current is posted on Instagram if you don’t believe me!). Today is Halloween and all the residents are in costume, not just the kids, as they tramp from house to house getting their booty. We put Scottie’s pumpkin hat on and joined in the fun! Yes, he was emasculated and embarrassed, but it was good entertainment for us, and he’s got to start paying his way somehow! LOL We stopped by The Boro restaurant and ate a delicious boil on the docks while watching the sun sink over the marsh. (Note: We order a single serving boil with an appetizer and it was enough for the two of us + leftovers for dinner the next day!) The docks were nice and it was the quintessential southern fishing village. The only downside was there were no restrooms or showers for transient boats and the closest trash cans were at the park about a block away.
Day 11: Swansboro to Wrightsville Beach, NC
Another gorgeous day!! Light breeze and clear skies greeted us as we made an early start for our run to Wrightsville Beach. The temps have dropped a bit with highs in the low 60s, so layers are an essential piece of gear. After passing through the Onslo River Bridge, the Figure Eight Island Bridge, and the Wrightsville Beach Bridge, which all have different opening times, we arrived at Seapath Yacht Club just as they were about to close for the day, Even though they had no transient slips available and we’d planned to anchor just off shore, they allowed us to tie up to the fuel dock for the night which always makes taking Scottie ashore a breeze. After a nice walk around the area, we reheated our boil from last night on Doxie’s grill and enjoyed a relaxing dinner al fresco in the cockpit. We even spoiled ourselves and opened a bottle of wine (instead of the standard Bota Box, aka Boata Box, LOL) and toasted another leg of our journey south. The facilities at Seapth are the nicest we’ve seen so far, with lovely showers, a huge lounge, and restrooms only steps away from the boat.
Day 12: Wrightsville Beach to Bald Head Island, NC
Another BEAUTIFUL morning greeted us as we pulled out of Seapath and headed south down the ICW toward Bald Head Island. We changed our reservations to arrive a day early due to the incoming rains forecasted for this afternoon and tomorrow, figuring we needed to be tied up somewhere so why not a beautiful resort? The mansions dotting the ICW’s coast kept us entertained as we laughed that most were almost big enough to live in! We arrived at BHI around lunchtime to a stiff breeze and large fluffy clouds on the horizon. The assistant dockmaster and crew were very helpful getting us turned around after fueling up as we moved Doxie to her transient slip across the marina. Lunch at Jules, which overlooks the marina village was pricey but good, then we headed off to rent a golf cart as that’s the only mode of transportation on the island. Scottie got to play on the beach for the first time and we posted a great video of him on Instagram (doxie_sails) of him romping and playing like a puppy! The weatherman wasn’t lying and the rains settled in shortly after sunset, so we did a simple spaghetti dinner with a game of Scrabble for dessert.
Day 13 & 14: Bald Head Island
The rains broke early morning with a shower around noon, but afterward we were able to let Scottie run and play on the beach again. We did a bit of exploring and found more restaurants and shops. Greg hit the hardware store, and we dropped off the recycling that had begun to take over the galley. Everything about this place is just too cute! We’d been here about 13 years ago (Dan was only 9, Mary was 15, and Sarah was just 17); my how the time flies! It’s grown up so much since Covid and there were new neighborhoods that we’d never seen, so I stayed lost most of the time, figuring that if I kept making right turns, I’d eventually end up where I started!
Our last day here and we were greeted with Carolina Blue skies and a light breeze. The temps have been dropping and with highs now in the low to mid-60s we’re back to layering our clothes. We did all of the touristy things: Old Baldy (NC’s oldest lighthouse), checked out some of the nature trails, and of course let Scottie run around on three different beaches! Only on one did we see anyone else, and the guy dropped down on one knee…. we took a pic from afar and when we met them on our walk back, got their number and texted them the image. They were from High Point, NC and needless to say, we just giddy. One more stop by the market for some chicken tenderloins and we were ready to call it a day. When we got back to Doxie we realized that somehow her power to the refrigerator/freezer was off and our Wagu steaks and crab cakes we’d been saving for our celebration dinner with Sarah the following week were thawed. We plunged them into the ice chest and regrouped our dinner plans…
Day 15: Bald Head Island to Myrtle Beach, SC
We arose before dawn to make the eight-hour jaunt down to Grand Dunes Marina in Myrtle Beach. With only one night and daylight savings time working against us, we wanted to get there with plenty of time to explore (aka shop!). The trip down saw us gaining speeds up to 8 knots with the tidal flow and down to 4 knots when we were against it. Overall, the ICW gets very narrow, with more and more development; no complaints, just a different scene and we’re starting to see high-rise buildings lining the channel. It’s pretty slow going as everything from North Myrtle Beach down has no wake signs. Grand Dunes is a misnomer as it’s not all that great - janky bathrooms/showers, nothing to do, and plants growing out of the docks. It’s not at all dog friendly as none of the outdoor restaurant spaces allowed dogs and the walk to the closest trash can was 300 yards. I will say, that although the dock hands were not particularly knowledgeable or experienced, they were helpful and we tipped them well. The one upside was meeting Michael, the head bartender at Reflections, a small restaurant/bar on the property. He went out of his way to make us feel welcome and if you’re here, be sure and stop by just to get a story or two from him! He was a gem!
Day 16: Myrtle Beach to Murrell’s Inlet, SC
We took out time leaving Grand Dunes as the wind was not our friend, pushing out of the northwest and making exiting out of our slip more than a challenge. Greg was up to the task and after setting a line midship and employing the help from a dockhand to tend to the bow line, he deftly backed her out - no accidents today! After that jaw dropping moment, the rest of our trip down to Wacca Wache Marina (yes, that’s spelled correctly, and yes, I got a t-shirt from there because the name’s so funny!) was uneventful. This tiny marina is awesome! Because all of the transient slips are all together, it was a party waiting to happen as everyone wanted to get to know one another! We were sandwiched between a 68’ and 54’ yachts - never though our 40’ sailboat was small until today! The dock crew was friendly, helpful, and with three of us arriving at the same time, managed to keep cool heads. We popped into the restaurant, which has the largest live oak complete with garlands of Spanish Moss creating a canopy over most of the outdoor area. We just had a cocktail and a beer, which were very reasonably priced, and headed back to Doxie to grill our special Wagu steaks and enjoy a glass of wine while sitting on the stern chatting with the neighbors.
Day 17: Murrell’s Inlet to Georgetown, SC Anchorage
Unfortunately, we were unable to find a slip in Georgetown, so we headed out of Murrell’s inlet south to an anchorage Greg had researched the night before. We met some really fun folks at Wacca Wache Marina, and they will also be anchoring there too! We pulled into the harbor at Georgetown to find a bustling community of watermen and recreational folks. The Harborwalk, a boardwalk of sorts, runs along the waterfront with restaurants, condos, and shops. We anchored out with a whole host of boats and took the dingy ashore. There are several city docks that we could pick from to tie up the dingy and once on shore we discovered loads of cute shops and restaurants along Front Street. We grabbed lunch at Between the Antlers, a restaurant that was 90% open air seating with great views overlooking the harbor. Next, we tried out an ice cream and sweets shop and then got a flight at Winyah Bay Brewing Company. They had good beers, but the lighting was far too harsh in the tasting room, but as we were leaving the bartender was setting up cornhole outside next to the BBQ food truck, so it looked like they were settling in for a fun evening. Back at Doxie we got a real treat - a concert by Tim Elliott, a North Carolina country and blues singer who was performing at one of the bars right on the water and we had a front row seat!
Day 18: Georgetown Anchorage to Prices Creek Inlet Anchorage (north of Isle of Palms)
This beautiful anchorage was recommended to us by two different friends as one of their favorites, and we were not disappointed! The location feels remote as the inlet is flanked by two islands that are wildlife preserves. It’s not protected, but our anchor held firm as we swung 360 degrees with the tides and wind and the depth only a stone’s throw from the marshes that line the channel was 15’. Greg and I enjoyed a late afternoon cocktail on Doxie’s bow watching the dolphins feeding and frolicking where the creeks intersected the main channel. At low tide the beach, where the inlet meets the ocean, is wide with what is a dangerous shoal at high tide, transforming into a 300-yard beach that seems to stretch endlessly into the Atlantic. The beach was littered with shells and driftwood; I found several beautiful welk conchs! While there are signs up stating that dogs are not allowed on the property, Scottie and I pulled up in the dingy to find that everyone else was also blatantly ignoring this edict too.
Day 19: Prices Creek Inlet to Mt. Pleasant, SC (Charleston Harbor Marina)
We’re home! Well, we’re at Doxies new home anyway. We pulled up anchor at 7:00 am and could soon see the iconic Cooper River Bridge off in the distance. We headed south through Isle of Palms, past Sullivans Island, and finally into Charleston Harbor. Turning up the Cooper River, Charleston Harbor Marina is next to Patriot’s Point, where the USS Yorktown is on full display. This huge facility boasts two hotel/resorts, a spa, two restaurants, tiki bar, marina store, and of course pools, etc. The best part is that both restaurants have outdoor seating and Scottie’s welcome!